I'm pleased to present the twelfth tutorial in this series. I wasn't overly excited by the prospect of painting Fili, his pose isn't as cool as the Kili model and Fili's clothes are predominately brown in colour which is possibly the dullest colour to paint, however I really got into the grove when painting him. I really like how his hair and beard came out. Read the tutorial after the jump.

This tutorial assumes you have a basic understanding of how to paint. For the beginners, I will explain the techniques as I go along. Each picture below shows four chronological steps. Underneath each picture are the corresponding instructions. Each step shows the paint I used during that step. It's good to have reference material close to hand to check colours. I used google images for film stills and Games Workshop's 360º pictures on their website were a great help. 

Paints you will need for this tutorial:
Black Undercoat (technical)
Cadian Fleshtone (layer)
Bloodletter (glaze)
Rhinox Hide (base)
Kislev Flesh (layer)
Mournfang Brown (base)
Skrag Brown (layer)
Tau Light Ochre (layer)
Gorthor Brown (layer)
Baneblade Brown (layer
Nuln Oil (shade)
Karak Stone (layer)
Agrax Earthshade (shade)
Pallid Wych Flesh (layer)
Dawnstone (layer)
Administratum Grey (layer)
Iron Breaker (layer)
Hashhut Copper (layer)
Auric Armour Gold (layer)
Stirland Mud (texture)
XV-88 (Base)

In case you need to expand your paint collection, head over to Wayland Games or Slave to Painting, which both stock a huge selection of paints at competitive prices.

Undercoat the model. The details are small, so I hand undercoated the model (rather then use a spray) with Imperial Primer.


1. I painted the face and fingers with Cadian Fleshtone. I painted around the beard. 
2. I changed the hue of the skin using Bloodletter glaze. Dwarves are a little more red in complexion then humans.
3. I watered down Rhinox Hide heavily and then shaded around the eyes, nose, inbetween the fingers and around the face. I then painted Rhino Hide straight out of the pot onto the trousers, wrist guards and scabbard.
4. I highlight the face with Kislev Flesh. Also if you're feeling brave, this is the opportunity to paint the eyes with a thin black line and two white dots. Don't forget to paint Fili's teeth while you have the white paint out.


5. Paint the hair and beard with Mournfang Brown. Then highlight the trousers, scabbard, wrist guards and gloves with Mournfang Brown.
6. Highlight the hair and beard with Skrag Brown.
7. Add some very thin small highlights to the hair and beard using Tau Light Ochre.
8. Create a 50:50 mix of Rhinox Hide and Gorthor Brown and paint the boots and tunic. Leave the trim of the tunic black for the moment. 


9. Add some edge highlights to the boots and tunic using Gorthor Brown. Paint the trim and scabbard strap using Gorthor Brown
10. Highlight the tunic, straps and boots with some final edge highlights of Baneblade Brown. Paint a diagonal cross pattern on the trim using thin lines of Baneblade Brown.
11. Completely wash over the tunic and boots with Nuln Oil. Don't do this over the trim. 
12. Paint the fur lined cuffs and lapels with Karak Stone.


13. Wash the fur lined cuffs and lapels with Agrax Earthshade.
14. Highlight the fur using Pallid Wych Flesh
15. Paint the hood with Dawnstone.
16. Highlight the hood using Administratum Grey.


17. Wash the hood with Nuln Oil. 
18. Paint the blades and buckles with Iron Breaker. the swords have some recessed detail, leave this black or add a Nuln Oil Wash over the top if you prefer. 
19. Paint the pommel and guard of the swords using Hashut Copper. 
20. Highlight the previous stage using Auric Armour Gold. 

Finally base the model in a way which fits in with your collection. I used Stirland Mud texture paint highlighted with Karak Stone and the base edge was painted with XV-88. Static grass and scrub were glued on in small clumps.


For more Hobbit tutorials check out my BilboGandalfThorinGloinBomburOriDwalinBalinKiliDori, and Goblin tutorials. If you found this tutorial useful, let me know in the comments. 

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